The family Commando build project

[DaveB]

Here are some shots of the latest progress. I have been doing the electrical system and have most of it done. The instrument panel turned out nice and I think the LED lights in it will work out well. I made the panel removable for easy access, all of the wires go through one connector (except the lockers) so it comes off easy. The fenders will be getting some weld smoothing before they are done. The front fenders are a bit different than most tube flares but I needed to cover the tires. The flares are removable for tough trails.
By the way does anyone know how those old commando starter switches come off ?

 

[Greg]

Very nice Dave, wiring is my least favorite part of a build. The fenders look nice & legal!

 

[DaveB]

IT IS ALIVE !!!! I finally got everything to the point of firing up the engine and it actually came to life. I have a TBI fuel issue that I need to track down. At first I had to prime it to get it going but after a while it ran on its own but it sometimes lopes at idle and dies. The TBI is one of the only things I didn't rebuild (just cleaned the outside). When it starts to die I can give it some gas and it will take off again so I think I may have an idle air controller issue. My maintenance light is on but I don't have a code reader and who knows if I actually dissected the harness correctly for the light.

 

[Tacoma]

if you kept the ADL port that is mounted under the dash, you can jump the two top right terminals, and read the blinking lights, as I'm sure you know.

If you don't, it blinks code 12 three times, and every code 3 times, all with pauses between them.

 

[sixstringsteve]

congrats, that's a huge milestone. Looking forward to seeing it on the trail.

 

[DaveB]

Well I found the problem, there are two hose connections on the back of the EGR solenoid, one is a vent and the other controls the EGR and I had the two connections swapped. I did the test port pin short and I got the 12 code so I must have wired the maint req wire correctly. Now I need to weld up the drivelines, add a tailpipe, figure out how to route the parking brake lines, and bleed the brakes and I can drive the beast.

 

[sixstringsteve]

we've got a shakedown run @ rattlesnake Friday night if you want to join us.

 

[DaveB]

That might be a bit soon as I haven't gotten it to where I can drive it yet, but it sounds fun.

 

[Swoop69]

I was there to witness it!


Thanks again for the loaner!

 

[DaveB]

It moves now !!!! I just put in all the drivelines and filled all the fluids and drove it up and down the street. I should have removed all the loose junk that was near the doors since I had to pick up a few parts and tools that fell out. I do have to look into why it seems to run a bit warm. Does anyone know what the TBI setups expect for a thermostat temp ? I used my laser temp gauge and the radiator is running 180 but the heads are running around 210 which is what the gauge reports. I also seem to have a bit of steering intermediate shaft bind from some fairly steep angles on the two piece shaft I created from a TJ and an XJ. Getting around the motor mounts was a challenge and maybe it will require some changes.

 

[Bart]

That's a big milestone. Congrats!!!

 

[Max Power]

Great work. Congrats!

 

[DaveB]

Thanks, I got the steering working better, it had a bad u joint in the middle. I'm pretty sure the thermostat is stuck, the top radiator hose is hot and the bottom one is cold so water isn't flowing.

 

[Gravy]

congrats on driving it a bit Dave. That's a big milestone

 

[DaveB]

Just for fun I started a list of all of the various parts I have put into this project and what they came off of. I set a personal record on this one and no one can say I haven't been an equal opportunity builder. Here are different types of parts I have on it:
73, 68 Commando Body and frame parts
78,87 K5 Blazer front axle, wiring parts, driveline parts, engine
88 K10 suburban TBI and wiring harnesses, 4x4 shifter, alternator, pulleys, transmission
92 Suburban electrical stuff
Various Chevy trucks electrical, exhaust
88 S10 Blazer gas tank, filler spout
CJ7 hood, grille, lights and wiring, washer and overflow bottles, radiator
TJ coil buckets, gas filler parts, brake booster/prop valve, steering shaft parts, steering box, rear springs, control arm bushings
90 Comanche evap canister bracket, e brake pedal
90 Firebird 700R4 floor shifter
Camaro shifter cover
96 ZJ steering shaft parts, seat belts
Various XJ steering column and steering shaft parts, front seats, brake line, front springs, evap canister
YJ rear seat
JK modified aftermarket track bar
F100 rear axle
F150 front hub parts
F250 shock towers, defroster ducts
F350 shocks
Bronco front axle parts
D250 Dodge transfer case
Farm tractor disconnect posts
Race car sway bars
Firetruck diamond plate for door panels
computer parts dash LEDs, aluminum panels for dash
lawnmower parts vent cable clamp
80's Toyota 4 Runner mirrors
and lots of DaveB parts

More to come

 

[DaveB]

I installed the lights last night and everything works, no messed up wiring found on anything yet. I do need some new tail light connectors since they are quite corroded.

 

[Stacey]

Dave, i think I still have a couple of new tail light connectors. I will look when I get home tonight. If they are still there you can have them.

 

[DaveB]

I ran down to Ra-elco and found some connectors so the rear lights are done. I also had to weld on new threads to the tail light housings since the bolts snapped off when they were taken off. You have to love rusty old jeeps. If anyone has a rust free tailgate that I could buy and save me some repair time that would be great.

 

[Stacey]

Someone on the JCCA web site just listed a good tailgate for sale. If you need me to I can look up the post.

 

[DaveB]

That would be great, I have tried to register for the site, but wasn't able to get it to work. I cut into the old tailgate and the rust inside is crazy. I can probably fix it but its going to take a lot of work.