Turbo time!

[TurboMinivan]

As for the fuel pump I have not checked for power, but there was initially fuel pressure (it actually fired on its own before help). I wonder if the filter caught all the garbage that was laying on the bottom of the tank?

Hmm. Maybe? That's interesting that the pump did work, even if only briefly.

I've also read that sometimes it's required to jump the positive of the pump to the positive of the coil or another ignition source? Have you heard of this?

I don't recall hearing anything about this trick. Personally, I've never had to do it. I lucked out--the fuel pump in my GLHS (which sat for ~7 years before I got it) still works just fine.

 

[xjtony]

I did check and it appears my pressure regulator has had the recall done. It the line coming in comes up the fire wall and then loops around into the regulator, clear of the exhaust manifold. I'm pretty excited to get this thing on the road and then start to build...

 

[xjtony]

So I put 5 gallons of gas in the tank to try and devolve some of the stuff that might be in the tank. My plan was to drain it out before I put the new pump in, but when I jacked up the car I found varnish all over the bottom of the tank from multiple pinholes. It's probably for the better anyways. Rock Auto to the rescue lol

 

[xjtony]

Not much to photograph yet, but new gas tank, pump, filter, regulator and soft lines are installed and she runs! The only part of the dash not working is the fuel level, but the sender is pretty gross. I should have replaced it with the pump, but I forgot to order it. It revs, idles and sounds pretty good except it has a tap up high when it warms up. After it's warm there is just a hit of a stumble, and it stumbles some when returning to idle. I used the old steth-o-hose and honestly is sounds like a loud injector. I pulled the valve cover and there doesn't appear to be any unusual wear on the cam or valve train. It's been sitting for anlong time and probably should get injectors anyways.

 

[xjtony]

 

[xjtony]

IT DRIVES!!!!! I decided to see if I could get it to move under its own power since it's running OK. It actually drives really well for a car that's been sitting 20+ years. Revs, shifts, brakes.... almost nonexistent. Ran it around the block a few times and was very happy. Its not road worthy quite yet, and I have a bunch of parts on the way. It does have a miss at idle that I need to figure out and the tach is intermittent.

 

[xjtony]

I've been slowly accumulating parts and have the engine running pretty good. Still some work to do before it's drivable, it's just been too hot to do too much in the driveway. I did however manage to source some parts to get me started on the Turbo 2 swap.

1 piece turbo 2 intake manifold and throttle body.

Factory radiator/ intercooler

 

[TurboMinivan]

It does have a miss at idle that I need to figure out

I watched your video to experience the miss... but I didn't hear it. Is it actually misfiring?

 

[xjtony]

Nope. I put new injectors in it and drove around the block a few times and it completely went away. I've got a bunch of parts coming focused on getting her on the road. New brake parts, timing set, etc. I did make one splurge today... rear window louvers, NOS. I'll slowly start to collect the turbo 2 conversion parts while I'm looking for a beefier transaxle.

 

[TurboMinivan]

New brake parts, timing set, etc.

Did you unplug the coolant temp sensor when you set the ignition timing?

 

[xjtony]

I haven't installed the timing set yet ,but thank you for reminding me. I did read that was required, but the process is completely different than what I'm used to.

 

[TurboMinivan]

I haven't installed the timing set yet ,but thank you for reminding me. I did read that was required, but the process is completely different than what I'm used to.

Wait... what?

When you set the base ignition timing (with your old school timing light!), start the car and then unplug the coolant temp sensor--it is the two-wire connector sticking out of the side of the thermostat housing in the head. Unplugging the sensor will turn on the radiator fan (so keep clear of it) and illuminate the Power Loss light (which is our equivalent of the check engine light), but it also stops the computer from altering the timing advance. Set the base timing to 12^, then shut the car off and plug in the sensor.

 

[xjtony]

Basically equivalent to disconnecting the vacuum advance on an older rig. I haven't looked at the timing yet becuase its running pretty good, but I will confirm everything when I put the new belt on.

 

[1969honda]

*old skool* louvers are cool...

 

[xjtony]

 

[xjtony]

I've been doing a lot of little stuff on the Laser over the last couple of weekends. Brakes are done, locks have been replaced, windows roll up and down now, tach is working, boost gauge installed, headliner installed. I've also removed all the tint due to bubbling. The only part of the dash that doesn't work now is the electronic navigator.





It's running pretty good but I still have a problem keeping it from being driven much. R, 1, 2, 4, and 5th all shift clean. 3rd gear not so much. It doesn't grind and when it does go into 3rd it's smooth and no grinding, it's just very hard to find 3rd gear. Most of the time it's just acts like it's in neutral. I've adjusted the shift cables per FSM instructions but no luck. @TurboMinivan do you, or anyone, have any experience with the cable shifted 525s? I dont want to put much money into it because it will be swapped out but I would really like to start driving the car.

 

[TurboMinivan]

@TurboMinivan do you, or anyone, have any experience with the cable shifted 525s? I dont want to put much money into it because it will be swapped out but I would really like to start driving the car.

Every A-525 I've ever owned--including the one I own currently--has been rod-shifted... so I have no experience to share.

Hail Mary idea: think you might luck out with a fluid drain and fill? OEM fluid for this transmission was ATF IIRC, but later the factory suggested switching to 10W-30 motor oil. I usually fill with Mobil 1 full synthetic.

 

[xjtony]

Every A-525 I've ever owned--including the one I own currently--has been rod-shifted... so I have no experience to share.

Hail Mary idea: think you might luck out with a fluid drain and fill? OEM fluid for this transmission was ATF IIRC, but later the factory suggested switching to 10W-30 motor oil. I usually fill with Mobil 1 full synthetic.

I guess the cable shifted 525s were only specific bodies. G bodies and a few others from what I've read. So I have done a drain and fill, but I did use ATF ( its what the FSM pages I have said and what was in there, I found the update after).

It's so weird, it shifts into the other gears fine, and when I hit it right it'll go into 3rd fine. When it misses the gear the shifter feels like it went into 3rd, but the trans stays in neutral. I've been trying determine exactly where I'm moving the shifter when it does go I to 3rd by driving around the neighborhood. Maybe that will give some info. Is it possible the shift fork in the trans is damaged? 4th gear works fine, so I would think that the fork being damaged would affect 3rd and 4th.

If you happen to know anyone who is looking to get rid of an A555 or one of the better transaxles I might be interested

The car is so close to being on the road!

 

[TurboMinivan]

I guess the cable shifted 525s were only specific bodies. G bodies and a few others from what I've read.

Or to phrase it from the opposite direction, I think L-bodies were the only cars with rod-shifted transmissions.

Is it possible the shift fork in the trans is damaged?

<shrug> I'm very unqualified to make a judgement about that.

If you happen to know anyone who is looking to get rid of an A555 or one of the better transaxles I might be interested

Remember: even an A-520 will be an upgrade for your car. (Maybe this will help you find a replacement.)

 

[xjtony]

I've been slowly isolating the issue and think I have it figured out. The shifter is adjusted correctly left to right, but the throw is about 1/8 in short. If I apply a little forward pressure to take up the slop it goes right into gear. I think I can adjust the selector cable a little bit and take up that slack, but even if I can't it's totally drivable now. Time to get tags and get her on the road after 32 years of sitting!