Turbo time!

[Mouse]

I hope you get it on the road soon. Its a cool car that should be driven

 

[xjtony]

I haven't posted an update here in a while.

I've been driving the Laser now for several weeks. Over all the thing runs and drives great.


I found a set of intact seats at the JY out of a 90 Daytona that have gone in as well. The driver is a power seat and only required a 12 v and ground.


All of the electronics work correctly except for the electronic navigator which I can replace. I just reflowed the solder on the tach pins today so now the tach reads all the time and not just when it wants.

The only issue the car has is the transaxle. Upon further inspection I found a broken shift fork. The pieces had been removed so it was identified at some point. Honestly I've just been shifting from 2-4 and not even trying to find 3rd.


I've been on the hunt for a better trans to swap but haven't found one yet.

Honestly the little car runs and drives great and these were way ahead of their time.

 

[xjtony]

Well apparently these things multiply....





89 LeBaron, 2.5 turbo with a blown head gasket and a 520 manual transaxle. I bought the car to part out honestly, but it's too straight to tear a part. The transaxle will move to the Laser for now and the 2.5 will come out for a rebuild (high miles).

I also picked up a rebuilt block (30k) with some Sealed Power 522p pistons, roller cam head and some other parts to start the engine build for the Laser.

 

[TurboMinivan]

I also picked up a rebuilt block (30k) with some Sealed Power 522p pistons, roller cam head and some other parts to start the engine build for the Laser.

What year is this replacement block? If you're gonna build any 2.2/2.5 turbo engine, you ought to use the best block available: the common block. It debuted for the 1989 model year, and they are quite plentiful--you've got one in the LeBaron, for example.

Since we're on the subject: the 2.5 in the LeBaron uses the same forged rods as the true TurboII 2.2 engines. By comparison, the rods in the Laser engine are weak and will fold under extreme pressure (literally). Crankshafts are usually pretty durable; yes, the TurboII used a forged crank while the 2.2 and 2.5 TurboI used a cast crank, but crank failures are very few and far between even under extreme use (ie, 35+ pounds of boost).

 

[TRD270]

Well apparently these things multiply....

View attachment 165720
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89 LeBaron, 2.5 turbo with a blown head gasket and a 520 manual transaxle. I bought the car to part out honestly, but it's too straight to tear a part. The transaxle will move to the Laser for now and the 2.5 will come out for a rebuild (high miles).

I also picked up a rebuilt block (30k) with some Sealed Power 522p pistons, roller cam head and some other parts to start the engine build for the Laser.
View attachment 165724
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That was my first car… non turbo

 

[N-Smooth]

Lebarons just make me think of this.

 

[xjtony]

Lebarons just make me think of this.

Lol. About the first thing that popped into my head as well

 

[xjtony]

What year is this replacement block? If you're gonna build any 2.2/2.5 turbo engine, you ought to use the best block available: the common block. It debuted for the 1989 model year, and they are quite plentiful--you've got one in the LeBaron, for example.

Since we're on the subject: the 2.5 in the LeBaron uses the same forged rods as the true TurboII 2.2 engines. By comparison, the rods in the Laser engine are weak and will fold under extreme pressure (literally). Crankshafts are usually pretty durable; yes, the TurboII used a forged crank while the 2.2 and 2.5 TurboI used a cast crank, but crank failures are very few and far between even under extreme use (ie, 35+ pounds of boost).

So my build plans for these cars is going to be in stages. I'm not going super hard-core quite yet with either one.

1. A520 into the Laser. The T1 runs great in the car, so for now I'll probably run a G valve or FWD tune to get the boost up some and drive the car while I do stuff like replace suspension, redo the hard fuel lines and gather parts for the T2 swap. The car will probably stay in this configuration for a bit.

2. The rebuilt block I have for the Laser is a pre CB, but I only plan on about 20 PSI boost out of this set up. The rods will be replaced by T2 rods, the pistons should be up to the task (early Sealed Power 522p), and I'm not worried about the crank at this PSI. I've got 2 782 heads, one a roller and one a slider. Don't know which one I'll use but I'll probably have the valves back cut when I have the heads gone through and do the PT lifter upgrade. This set up will get the T2 top end and a front mount intercooler. Like I said this set up the goal is 20psi, maybe if I take it to the track and run it on good gas turn it up to 25. I also have an A555 being pulled for this set up.

3. The LeBaron. This guy threw a wrench into the plan lol. The 2.5 will get rebuilt. I'll go through the chassis while the engine and transaxle are out and clean up what I can. The interior is pretty good except for some seat tears. I think I'm going to put my factory intercooler set up on this car, should be pretty simple and maybe shoot for 18-20 PSI. The Mistsubishi turbo will be replaced with a Garrett. The A520 will go back in to this car when the 555 is ready for the Laser. I'm also going to do the chromoly bearing retainer plate for the A520.

4. After I get both cars where I want them then I might find a common block to build for the Laser. Forged crank, pistons, better head, maybe even a super 60 setup and really start turning it up some. This will be down the road some for sure. Partly this plan comes from what parts I've been able to collect and budget/ time.

Also one of my buddies keeps sending me pictures like this...


While I'm not opposed to doing a RWD, maybe gen 3 hemi conversion to the Laser it would be down the road a ways.

 

[TurboMinivan]

1. A520 into the Laser. The T1 runs great in the car, so for now I'll probably run a G valve or FWD tune to get the boost up some and drive the car while I do stuff like replace suspension, redo the hard fuel lines and gather parts for the T2 swap.

Knowing the engine runs well, this is a good plan. Even without an intercooler, using a g-valve and dialing it in to 13 psi will be plenty fun to drive. (I did this with my '86 Shelby Charger <my first turbo Dodge car> back in the day.)

2. The rebuilt block I have for the Laser is a pre CB, but I only plan on about 20 PSI boost out of this set up. The rods will be replaced by T2 rods, the pistons should be up to the task (early Sealed Power 522p), and I'm not worried about the crank at this PSI.

At 20 psi, the only engine component to worry about are the lightweight rods. Everything else can handle that amount of torque just fine--even the early block. (I always suggest the common block if you're tearing down the engine already, since more beef is always welcome... but nothing to worry about at that power level.)

I've got 2 782 heads, one a roller and one a slider. Don't know which one I'll use

Cams and rockers can be interchanged on these heads with no issues.

and do the PT lifter upgrade.

I know this mod has become all the rage in the last few years, but I've never done it. I never had any issues with my stock lifters. If you think it's a worthwhile mod, then go ahead.

Like I said this set up the goal is 20psi, maybe if I take it to the track and run it on good gas turn it up to 25.

On my 2.5L minivan, I was able to safely run up to 18 psi without detonation on local pump premium gas. This let me run mid-to-low 14s at RMR, even with my lousy launches. (A 2.000 60-ft time was the best I could do in that van, even with slicks.) If I wanted to run 20 psi or more, I'd need to mix in some 100 octane unleaded (which I bought at a small unmanned station in Provo).

I ended up installing a toggle switch on the dash which controlled a solenoid that gave me two-stage boost control. The LOW setting was dialed in at 18 psi (ie, for pump gas) and I would set the HI setting at whatever I wanted to run at the track that day. First time with some extra octane, I went to 20 psi and ran a few 13.9s. Later I cautiously went up to 24 psi, which let me run consistent 13.5s over the course of a dozen passes. That was the fastest I ever ran the van.

3. The LeBaron. ... I think I'm going to put my factory intercooler set up on this car, should be pretty simple and maybe shoot for 18-20 PSI. The Mistsubishi turbo will be replaced with a Garrett.

A 2.5L TurboI engine with a stock Garrett turbo makes a great combo for a daily driver. You still get decent response down low, but have much more power up top. If you can find a 2-pc intake, it will be even better.

 

[xjtony]

I like the idea of the of the 2 stage boost control. I was looking at the info on dodge garage. Makes sense and is nice and simple.

While waiting on parts for the kids truck (did you know that the engine won't hold oil when you put the rear main seal in backwards?) I got to fitting my louvers on the Laser. The set I bought didn't come with brackets, and I guess the original brackets just attached with 3m emblem tape anyways. This is not a show car, so I started looking at how to mount them.



They still need a little final fitting and paint, but they hold the louvers tight. The bottom side of the hook will secure with some 3M to the lip of the hatch as well. I still need to figure out the leading edge and a few finishing touches, but they are on.

 

[Pile of parts]

Another one to add to your fleet.

80s Tuner Car: 1986 Dodge Shelby Charger

While it can sometimes seem like certain vintage and enthusiast cars are only getting more expensive, there are others that seemingly continue to remain affordable despite having respectable pedigree. The lineup of Shelby-kissed Mopar products from the 1980s are a great example of emerging...

barnfinds.com

 

[xjtony]

I love the Shelby Chargers. One of my favorites!

@TurboMinivan what are your thoughts on the Saab cold start 5th injector activated with a pressure switch? Seems like a pretty simple way to add fuel for 18 psi or so. I am installing an AFR gauge, to monitor at WOT. Its old school and simple, both of which i like.

 

[TurboMinivan]

I love the Shelby Chargers. One of my favorites!

My first car was an '86 Shelby Charger, silver with blue stripe/trim.

@TurboMinivan what are your thoughts on the Saab cold start 5th injector activated with a pressure switch? Seems like a pretty simple way to add fuel for 18 psi or so.

Gus Mahon used extra injectors with great success. They are a simple concept which, when installed correctly, work well. I installed one briefly on my minivan, only to have the dragstrip tech people frown on it due to additional rubber fuel line underhood. To make it easier for me to pass tech, I removed it and instead installed +40% injectors with an adjustable pressure regulator... and eventually went to a 3-bar calibration that would support up to 30 psi via computer control.

It sounds like you've seen Gus Mahon's fuel page... but if not:

fuel

 

[xjtony]

I've spent a great deal of time on Gus' page lol. I'm just looking at different options, and I like the old-school mentality. I like the idea of the raising rate regulator with the big injectors as well.

I just placed an order for about everything I need to build my block to full T2 specs. I also ordered a flywheel/T2 clutch and chromoly bearing plate for the A520. The transaxle will go in the car in the next few weeks. I'm going to run a G valve on the T1 for a bit of extra fun while I build out the new engine over the winter, then the fun can begin.

My thoughts were to run the G valve and an extra injector on a switch to give me a bit more boost (maybe 18 psi tops) while I'm kind of shaking everything down and getting used to the new set up, then probably moving to bigger injectors, 3 bar MAP and getting more aggressive once I'm ready to start taking it to the track.

 

[TurboMinivan]

I'm going to run a G valve on the T1 for a bit of extra fun while I build out the new engine over the winter, then the fun can begin.

On a non-intercooled T1, I would not go higher than 12-13 psi (which is about the max you can get away with without fiddling with your MAP sensor).

 

[xjtony]

I had planned on shooting for 12. Just some extra fun. I'll be starting on the T2 engine over the winter, then we'll start to go up from there until I meet my goals. Honestly I'll probably run the car at 14 psi for a bit while I drive it and switch some time over to the LeBaron. After I get both cars roadworthy and running about 14 PSI I'll start to push it up with the Laser. I'm trying to use parts that will allow me to move up in boost without major modification.

Did add an AFR gauge today too. Not necessary now, but as I start to fiddle with it I'd like to keep an eye on it.



This boost gauge reads 4 psi low so I have a black Auto Meter coming to match a bit better.

 

[TurboMinivan]

Did add an AFR gauge today too. Not necessary now, but as I start to fiddle with it I'd like to keep an eye on it.

Aww, the old Intellitronix a/f gauge. I miss the days of watching those LEDs bob up and down.

This boost gauge reads 4 psi low so I have a black Auto Meter coming to match a bit better.

I've always been a big fan of AutoMeter gauges. They have never failed me.

I should see if I can dig up an old photo of my gauge layout in the minivan. I think you (and others here) would get a good chuckle out of it.

 

[xjtony]

Auto Meter 4303 for the win! The Equus gauge was reading 4 PSI low. Boost goes to just under 10 psi and fuel goes to 9 bars at WOT, just as Mopar intended.

 

[xjtony]

More parts coming in

Chromoly bearing retainer plate for the A520



Old school Grainger valve MBC.

Also got new clutch and flywheel, and some window sweeps. Took a few days off and we'll see what we can get done.

 

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