Jeep Willys ground-up build

[Gravy]

good work!

 

[I Lean]

I found a few minutes to pick away at this over the holidays:

Got the axle-side link mounts mostly done, still need to box in the lowers--but I'm waiting on that until I mount coilovers, in case I need to integrate those mounts into the control arm mounts.

The upper's as done as I'm planning on it being.

I also finished up the front driveshaft. This is shown at full compression. (the driveshaft is about a millimeter away from hitting the bellhousing here, and that's AFTER I clearanced it. Sure glad I don't have a starter on that side anymore)

 

[mbryson]

Wow, so where's the maiden voyage? Looks trail ready

 

[I Lean]

There's still a thing or two to finish up.

My plan is to drive it before the Zombie Apocalypse.

 

[Tacoma]

That's sexy. What did you do to the diff mount? I mean as far as preheat/cooling?? Cuz if you can do THAT, I may have to bribe you with pies or something for my upcoming anti-wrap bar.

Let me repeat: I freakin' LOVE this build.

 

[I Lean]

That's sexy. What did you do to the diff mount? I mean as far as preheat/cooling?? Cuz if you can do THAT, I may have to bribe you with pies or something for my upcoming anti-wrap bar.

Let me repeat: I freakin' LOVE this build.

I heated the whole thing up with a space heater, then a little more with a propane torch in the weld area. After welding, I wrapped it up in welding blankets for insulation, to let it cool slowly.

That method works well on Dana housings, 14 bolts don't seem to weld nearly as well. :-\ I do like pies though.

 

[Stephen]

I do like pies though.

That is very good to know.

 

[Bart]

Suweeeeet.

 

[Gravy]

Super slick tube work. More impressive in person. I can definitely tell you've spent some time pouring over clearances.

I was meaning to ask you about it when I was over.
3/16" or 1/4" on the lower link mounts? You think that'll be ok?
I'm guessing you're going to box them, and do weld nuts. Doesn't seem like the place I'd save weight?

 

[Herzog]

You need to work on this more. Mostly so I can steal more ideas.

I prefer cheesecake.

 

[I Lean]

3/16" or 1/4" on the lower link mounts? You think that'll be ok?
I'm guessing you're going to box them, and do weld nuts. Doesn't seem like the place I'd save weight?

It's all 3/16", and I think it'll be fine. If it isn't, then I'll double up around the holes that are egged out. They'll all get boxed, just like the rear axle's mounts.
No weld nuts though, just normular nylocks.

I'm saving weight everywhere, that's why it has a D44, a Toy axle, and a V6. :greg:

 

[SAMI]

I'm saving weight everywhere, that's why it has a D44, a Toy axle, and a V6. :greg:

And the thin candy shell of one of, if not, the smallest 4x4's ever produced in the US.

 

[Gravy]

Did I say weld nuts? I meant weld washers around the holes.

 

[Hickey]

Love the diff mount. Love it all.

 

[Brent]

drill another hole just in from the stock one then taper it, then bend the tierod like a superduty so it clears the pumpkin. you bent the one I used on the xj with this done. I used es150L and R rod ends, they have a 3/4 fine thread and a taper near the same size as the stock rod end.

then find a high steer arm that is cut with a bend in to clear the wheel.

 

[I Lean]

drill another hole just in from the stock one then taper it, then bend the tierod like a superduty so it clears the pumpkin. you bent the one I used on the xj with this done. I used es150L and R rod ends, they have a 3/4 fine thread and a taper near the same size as the stock rod end.

then find a high steer arm that is cut with a bend in to clear the wheel.

I'm already done with that part....the tie rod is made using 3/4" heims instead of TRE's, and my hi-steer arm clears the wheel just dandy. You can kinda see it in this pic.

Also, I'm very familiar with the ES150's--but they're quite a bit smaller than the original Wagoneer tie rod taper. (which wouldn't matter if I'm tapering a new hole...)

 

[I Lean]

I've been waffling on what to do with the rear suspension. There is very little room back there, so I couldn't fit a coilover like I originally wanted--and I can't cut into the tub for it, since I have a rear seat in the way. So, I thought I was limited to doing a standard coil/shock setup, but then I still don't have a good place to put a shock. :sick:

So after trying to figure out alternate places to fit things, I ended up back to using a coilover, mounted horizontally, connected to the axle through a cantilever bellcrank.

Lots of hours of work later, I have these. They'll stay like they are until I can get the coilover shocks, then I can finalize their mounting. (it's just temporary and tacked in until I know the exact location)

The rods connecting to the axle are just waiting on some heims and things from RuffStuff Specialties--Dan has been GREAT to work with even though he was out of some of the parts I needed when I ordered.

You can see the spindle I used for the pivot--it's a 1.5" diameter beefcake unit--thanks Nate!

This is at full compression:

...and pretty close to full droop. That's an 8" travel shock, yeilding 12" of travel. (1.5:1 ratio for you math-challenged types )

 

[spaggyroe]

You can see the spindle I used for the pivot--it's a 1.5" diameter beefcake unit--thanks Nate!

No problem Carl, glad you could put them to use.

I love your swingy pivot bellcrank thingy brackets! Sexy fab work! I'm excited to see the end result when the shocks are mounted.

 

[Bart]

A W E S O M E ! ! ! !

 

[Herzog]

There is an overload of bad-assness in that last update.