4runner Build

[iamsparticus]

Cool thanks Rot Box i will get it done and let you know how it went, but as far as keeping the 4.37 i can't find anyone except the guy i bought the axle from, but his rear is a 2 pinion from a 4 cylinder, i'm afraid that the ring and pinion won't fit in my V6 carrier, but if it does he said 25 bucks for it, what do you think, would it work? As for the longer spline drive shaft i think for now i'll be alright because of a tight budget i'm useing the stock springs of the 1980 with some shackles that i'm making, unless someone has some used springs they would give me to give it a boost, the wife said no more spending for awhile buti need to get this done

 

[I Lean]

Cool thanks Rot Box i will get it done and let you know how it went, but as far as keeping the 4.37 i can't find anyone except the guy i bought the axle from, but his rear is a 2 pinion from a 4 cylinder, i'm afraid that the ring and pinion won't fit in my V6 carrier, but if it does he said 25 bucks for it, what do you think, would it work? As for the longer spline drive shaft i think for now i'll be alright because of a tight budget i'm useing the stock springs of the 1980 with some shackles that i'm making, unless someone has some used springs they would give me to give it a boost, the wife said no more spending for awhile buti need to get this done

The 4cyl gears will fit in a V6 third, it just requires special shimming on the pinion. Nothing any good gear installer shouldn't be able to handle.

 

[Rot Box]

i'm afraid that the ring and pinion won't fit in my V6 carrier, but if it does he said 25 bucks for it, what do you think, would it work?

They will work but keep your V6 carrier as it is much stronger than the 4cyl carrier. The difference in ratio's is noticeable and it will help with larger tires, but if it ends up being a lot more work I would just go with 4.10's.

One thing to consider is the 4.37 third members have a factory solid sleeve (between the two pinon bearings) instead of a crush sleeve. Toyota went to crush leaves about the same time they started offering 4.10's (1981ish). Crush sleeves make gear installation a little easier (for some) but have been know to collapse under pressure. With those solid spacers you eliminate that problem in both differentials.

If you're trying to save money on springs look into the RUF (rears up front) springs. Rears leafs from the mini trucks work great for front springs. They also move your axle forward a little bit which really helps. Imo the best years to get these springs from would be the 84-88 pickups as they should match your rear lift great (3.5-4"). I don't have any at the moment, but they are fairly easy to find and I really wouldn't pay any more than $50 for a good used set.

What are your plans for steering? Because of your frame you will need at least a 3" lift to clear high steer. Don't bother trying to use the steering from a factory solid axle truck it is dangerous if not set up properly. Because of its design it is very limited off road.

 

[iamsparticus]

the build

well i like the rears up front idea, and i think i will get the rear diff from the guy i got the axle from, and switch the gears on to my V6 carrier. As for the steering i had no idea how crappy the stock steering was, so what do i need to make the steering work? Do i have to buy high steer or can i get by with something else? Not a big budget but i can do it a little at a time, how hard would it be to make a high steer? I have seen them and it looks like a long chunk of metal with 4 holes to bolt it to axle and another to hook up the links

 

[Rot Box]

Not a big budget but i can do it a little at a time, how hard would it be to make a high steer? I have seen them and it looks like a long chunk of metal with 4 holes to bolt it to axle and another to hook up the links

It is more than just a few holes and an arm. The four holes have a specific countersink and spacing that is very important to the structural integrity of the arm. Not using the conical washers and having the holes mis-aligned even a small amount will make an already weak design very dangerous. For the price of aftermarket arms it would be very difficult to make your own and have it be cost effective (if you count your time as money) imo.

There have been a few different ways of making a home brew steering setups using stock arms in the past, but by the time you piece together a decent tie rod, drag link, buy 4 tie rod ends and weld a cast steering arm properly (which is not easy) you will be much better off going with a complete kit and doing it right. Steering and brakes are something you will want to do right for your safety as well as others.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/steering/high-steer/high-steer-kit-hilux

http://trail-gear.com/high-steer-kits.html

http://allprooffroad.com/8489steering/17

keep up the work and keep the pics coming

 

[iamsparticus]

Okay i checked out the high steer, i didn't think they were much but i see now what is all involoved, incase you can't tell this is my first from scratch build and i lack alot of the build knowledge i need, so thanks rotbox and everyone so far for helping me along the way. okay so i need the high steer if i want to even get off the dirt road, 300 bucks is what it looks like it will take, does that include a knew knuckle on the axle? If i swap in the 1980 axle with the stock front springs will it work as a temp setup mostly for street till i can get the cash to obtain the parts i need to make it the flexy beast i want it to be? Anyone have a used High steer kit?

 

[NOTATOY]

Yeah i'll take the used gears, they fit a front axle right? An yeah it's will spegiel you know him

I know Will, my buddy Brett is best friends with him. I haven't talked to him since he moved to Detroit though.

 

[ricsrx]

High steer

been there done that, just buy the kit, the tooling alone will cost 50% of the kit and then you still need tie rods.....

 

[richpblaze]

Wow your whinning about the cost of Highsteer.

That's comedy back when I bought it, it sold for 699.00 + shipping. I paid way to much for alot of thingts but it was a new thing. So I woudlnt feel to bad. The kits are definetly the way to go. Search find a used kit.

 

[choptopbII]

yeah 300 is a cheap for high steer.

 

[smashmetal]

While your at it make sure you plate the frame around the steering box. Would also to be to your benifit to possiably move the steering box as far foward as you can. It leaves room to grow but also allows you to move the front spring perch foward to keep the tires from contacting the cab.

This might give ya some idea's

http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=925

 

[iamsparticus]

well i don't think i was whining, just can't help i have a tight budget, if i had the dough i would just buy it but since i don't right now need a cheap way to get the high steer

 

[iamsparticus]

thanks smashmetal i will plate it for sure, i kinda was planning on it but a good reminder of a weak point. So does anyone have some rear toyota springs i could put in my front?

 

[Rot Box]

I'll see if I can dig up some rear springs I used to have a set or two but it's been awhile since I looked for them...

it sold for 699.00 + shipping. I paid way to much for alot of thingts but it was a new thing.

I remember those days. Wish my 4.7's cost what they do nowadays

 

[iamsparticus]

Thanks rotbox i appricate it alot. sooner i get the springs the sooner i can start putting it all together

 

[iamsparticus]

i got a spring set and the bushings as well as the front axle, i just need the high steer and tierods, i'll post some pics tomorrow

 

[iamsparticus]

An update

Here is some of the parts i have collected for the SAS, and the rear with the Bilstein shocks

 

[iamsparticus]

Got some more parts, parts to flip the u-bolts, all the bushings, shackles, the tierod ends and the tie rod and drag link, thanks to a generous member of this site, is all i need now are the high steer arms and i'm ready to do the swap, so if anyone has a pair to spare i'll buy them

 

[spiderman]

Does anybody know what that thing is that the brake lines run through in the second pic? It has a rod that goes from it down to where the panhard attaches to the axle...

It's on my 85 and I have no friggin' clue what it is!

 

[Greg]

Does anybody know what that thing is that the brake lines run through in the second pic? It has a rod that goes from it down to where the panhard attaches to the axle...

It's on my 85 and I have no friggin' clue what it is!

It's a LSPV, Load Sensing Proportioning Valve. It basically adjusts the rear brakes if you have a load in the back.