Maldito's 88 4Runner

[sLcREX]

So this year I finally have memorial weekend off from work and I believe that's when the annual RME meet is held down in Moab right? I am hoping I can make it down there this year but I am still rocking the IFS, is it something I can get through in their trails? I don't really want to invest on the IFS since I plan to do a SAS eventually, but I don't think I have the funds to tackle it all at once and it is my daily driver. Unless you guys think I can do it for under $500 I'm just not quite ready to take that leap yet. I already have the axle, it's just a matter of getting all the other stuff to do it.

I am still rocking the open diff and 4.10s with 33s, so I don't know if a locker or gearing would be a better investment for the trip or what you guys suggest.

This is a tentative build thread.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I don't think you can do a sas for under $500.

I HIGHLY recommend some 4.7 t-case gears before any other mod, even a locker. With 4.7's, you'd be able to make it through 90% of the trails in Moab. I'll be rocking an open front diff, ifs, and 35's (not much different from 33s). I HIGHLY recommend you do the t-case gears.

I'd be happy to take you on a few trails down in Moab if you'd like, but only if you have 4.7s

 

[skippy]

I would invest in a spartan locker for that rear axle before I did anything.

 

[clfrnacwby]

I completely agree. I've never crawled anything but a Toyota and can honestly say that the lower t-case gears have got to be first and foremost. After that...a rear locker would be nice. I've known lots of folks who wheel with IFS and have never had a problem.

 

[sixstringsteve]

I'll be installing duals before the RME BBQ as well. Maybe we can race to see who can get their rig ready first.

 

[sLcREX]

Tell me more about the 4.7's. While I can imagine the benefits are there, while I was at the MMP noob run last month I realized how much traction is an issue on my rig, so a rear locker was up there in my list.

I'm pretty sure I'd lose the race, I work slow and take my time lol

 

[sixstringsteve]

You were lurching quite a bit at the last noob run (I've still got the video if you want to see it). You get traction, but you had to ram a lot of obstacles to get over them. 4.7's will allow you to crawl slower and do things smoother, without having to hit them hard at speed. A locker is next on the list after 4.7's, and lockers are amazing. Most of the trails in Moab are pretty smooth and don't require a ton of articulation. Most of the time, all 4 of your wheels will be on the ground at any given time. There are obviously exceptions to this, but for the most part I think lower t-case gears would pay off more than a locker, but that's just me. t-case gears are going to be easier on your truck than having to "bump" everything at speed. There are obstacles that I was able to get up with open diffs and 4.7's that I struggled to get up with lockers and stock t-case gears (Hell's gate for example). Every obstacle is different. For one obstacle you'll want a locker. For another, you'll want low gears. You'll eventually want both, but I always pick low t-case gears first.

Also, a lot of the trails in moab are extremely steep; a lot steeper than what you're used to. You don't want to be going up really steep hills fast, you want to crawl them. Also, when you crawl slowly, it gives your suspension more time to droop, and most of the time your wheels will be on the ground.

Either way, whether you get 4.7s or a rear locker, you're going to love the improvement over your current rig.



If you still had the stock 28" tires, I'd say it'd be a toss up between locker and t-case gears. Now that you've got 33's, your low-range isn't very low anymore. Hitting obstacles too fast usually leads to breakage.

 

[jinxspot]

Also the nice thing about deeper gears is general is that they allow you to "compression break" in long/steep decents (1st gear decends super slow)... this was a huge relief for me when I moved out here to know I had control of my rig going down obsticles for me & my passengers safety.

Like Steve said, you will most likely want both mods eventually (deep gears and lockers). If you have never had a locker you should consider welding the 3rd member first to see what a "fully locked" rearend gets you. If you go with a locker you need to research a lot more about which make and model is good for you (I personally think selectable locker is the best).

I feel the "finess" you get from the lower gears by far outways putting the rear locker in first (plus if you really want a rear locker this wheeling season you could weld it for next to nothing).

Advantages for less fatigue on a vehicle w/ lower gears: You will be a lot happier not having to slip the clutch on obsticles, not having to beat on your ujoints by bumping it, not having to ram rocks with more speed cause you can't really go as slow as you should without stalling the motor, ability to crawl up and down step obsticles with more control, Way easier to pick the correct line when you can crawl it...

These are opinions only, but my 2cents.

 

[mesha]

you need a locker and lower gears. I personally don't think it matter which you do first. I always do locker before gears, but who knows.

 

[Spork]

I'm of the opinion of wheel what you got and then figure out what you need. There's always something else out there that wants your money and any wheeling is better than sitting in the garage and wishing you were wheeling. Reading your desire of gears or a locker, I would pick gears unless you want to drop tire sizes.

 

[1986ToyRunner]

I was in the same boat you are in, I have a Daily Driven 86 4runner that started out with stock everything but the 33" tires. The first thing I did to it was weld the rear end and that made a big difference, but I still had to get some speed to be able to get up a lot of obstacles. After a year of having to ram up everything I put 4.7's in and a spool in the back (welds broke in the welded diff) and WOW what a big difference the 4.7's made in my wheeling style, I could take things at a slower pace and not beat the crap out of my truck. If I had the chance to do it all over again I don't think I would do anything any differently. I eventually save my money for up for the sas and 5.29's. I wouldn't waste your money on diff gears until you do your sas.

Just my .02 cents

Hope it helps.

 

[sLcREX]

With everyone's input it certainly does make sense to go with the 4.7 gearing. How is that different from doing a dual transfer case?

 

[sixstringsteve]

the end ratio will be nearly identical. Here's how I see it.

4.7's
pros: cheap, no driveline modifications needed, no new crossmember needed, no need to cut the floor
cons: sometimes 4th gear in low is too slow and 1st in high is too fast.

duals
pros: you have more gear options. You can run at the stock 2.28 low for those times you don't want to crawl along, but you don't want to baja either. You also get a longer front driveshaft which helps your driveline angle, and oftentimes it ends up being the same length as your rear DS, so you can swap 'em in an emergency.
cons: you have to cut your floor, get a dual-case crossmember, it'll interfere with your center console (but you can trim it), you have to have both of your drivelines modified (not cheap).


So the real question comes down to: is it worth the extra expense and work to have the extra gears in-between super low and high? Some people say yes, some people say no. If I had the option to put 4.7's in my taco, I'd do it instead of duals, but us taco guys only have one option: duals (and expensive ones at that).

 

[zukijames]

i say gears before locker.. i have wheeled all options.. lockers no gears, gears no lockers, and both

moab has alot of traction.. you can get you rig into bad situations with out a locker.. and low gears sure make it nice when your in a bad spot and can put it in low and maneuver around to get into a better spot i hope that makes since..

a locker just gets you into worse spots.. then your somewhere about to tip over .. tire in the air. and trying to do the clutch with one foot and doing the gas and break with other .. you have to rev it higher and stay in your clutch more..

so thats how you justify buying both..

buy the 4.7s..(i prefer duals) and buy a spartan with the money you will be saving since you wont be smoking your clutch

 

[sLcREX]

Which would be more cost effective? Buying 4.7s or getting duals and modding the necessary parts? The idea is certainly growing on me, but a lunchbox locker isn't really expensive so possibly both could get done.

 

[sixstringsteve]

4.7s - $445


duals (about $750)
- adapter - $305
- dual crossmember - $185
- front driveshaft lengthening - $100
- Rear driveshaft shortening - $60
- spare t-case - $100



prices are estimates and do not include tax.

 

[zukijames]

if your going to SAS later i guess just do 4.7s for now.. other wise you pay for drivelines twice..

 

[sLcREX]

For some reason I imagined duals would be the cheaper option. But yeah, I guess if I am going SAS later that makes sense not to do the duals now. So I'll look into the 4.7's

 

[zukijames]

were you in lehi tonight..

 

[sLcREX]

No, I've been at home in magna all day