Jeep Project "Culpepper" 5.2L V8 Swap

[Slangy]

I have had a bunch of people ask me how I did the wiring for this project. Well I made a quick little layout of where I spliced the new V8 harness into the existing 4 cylinder harness. Keep in mind that you will need a actual wiring schematic so you know which colors are which. It is like red and yellow goes to blue and green. It is actually quit simple. The best way to do it is to take a piece of paper and right down a sensor and label what it is. make 2 colums, one for the 4 cylinder and one for the V8. Write the colors of the signal wire for each and write the color for the signal ground. This helps you keep track of things when you get lost in the mess of wires. All the signal grounds tie back into one main signal ground wire. But all the sensors and misc. things that run the engine all run seperately back to the pcm. This is fine because you can just tie into the existing without tracing all the way back to the pcm. Just make sure you are tieing into the correct sensor wire.
I tried to make this diagram as simple as possible, if you have questions about it feel free to ask and I will do my best to help you out.
I know the green is a little hard to read but if you save the picture to your computer you can read it better.

 

[Slangy]

Here is another diagram, hopefully you can read it better. Let me know if you can't.

 

[rholbrook]

I want to know your opinion of the whole swap. Was it worth it, does it get better mileage, etc ?

 

[Slangy]

I want to know your opinion of the whole swap. Was it worth it, does it get better mileage, etc ?

So worth it. Hell I made money doing it, now you can't beat that.
Seriously though you definately need to do it. Playing in the rocks is so much better, when you get to the top of something you have that extra ummpff to get you up.
As for the gas mileage I am not sure. When I re-built the t-case I messed up the speed-o gear and my mph does not work, nor does the mileage. So I can't give you my honest opinion on it but it doesn't seem bad.

Come on what are you waiting for, get on it

 

[RockChucker]

you have a 231 right? you should be able to 'clock' the speedo gear until it contacts where it needs to on the output shaft. i wanna say it even has lines on the sensor housing where the clamp needs to line up for 'x' number of teeth. there are a few clocking positions if i remember correctly.

 

[Bart]

Yep, just loosen the bolt on the speedo gear clamp and rotate. All it's doing is engaging the teeth on the gear.

 

[Slangy]

you have a 231 right? you should be able to 'clock' the speedo gear until it contacts where it needs to on the output shaft. i wanna say it even has lines on the sensor housing where the clamp needs to line up for 'x' number of teeth. there are a few clocking positions if i remember correctly.

Yep, just loosen the bolt on the speedo gear clamp and rotate. All it's doing is engaging the teeth on the gear.

Doesn't sound to big of deal. Thanks guys, I guess I will get off my lazy but and climb down there and get it fixed. I have been putting it off all summer. It irritates my wife that I only work on the Jeep in the months leading up to Moab EJS. I like working under pressure I guess.

I still have a few things I need to get working on. I had my cousin (R.I.P. D.C.) build me a set of outboard shock brackets I drew up like the polyperformance type that I haven't put on yet. And I would also like to get working on a new front end. My father in law said he had a Ford F-250 camper special I could have. Hold on the story falls apart, when I went to check it out it was F-150 camper special with the HP Dana 44. I am not sure if it would be worth the time to build this axle or not. I guess I am not sure what the max tire size I could run with it. Does anyone have any opinions on that front end. Should I build it and post up the build or just hold out for a Dana 60.

I got Culpepper out last night and washed him up the best I could. There is enough red sand in that thing to start a sand box for the local kids My bosses daughter is class president for Weber High and she asked if I would drive her and Pep in the parade. Man I forget how dirty a rig can get after a few times out wheeling.

 

[Lifelong Jeeper]

IMO just hold out for a 60. There is marginal gain in strenght from the 30 to a 44, but signifiicant increase to go to 60. Do it right the first time and avoid the regrets.

 

[Lifelong Jeeper]

Take the truck and sell it and put the money towards the 60.

 

[Slangy]

IMO just hold out for a 60. There is marginal gain in strenght from the 30 to a 44, but signifiicant increase to go to 60. Do it right the first time and avoid the regrets.

That is what I have heard, I guess I am going to do it right the first time. I have made that mistake many times before by skimping out to save some money only to end up buying what I initially wanted.
Thanks

 

[huntmaster86]

durango vs GC

why did you use the durango for the 5.2 instead of the gc 5.2? I have heard something about starters being in different locations??? I along with another club member here in upstate NY wanna do this swap. did you put different springs up front for the extra weight? are there better years durangos to use than others? is there a difference in using a dakota? i would like to have the 5 sp still and i havent seen a durango in a 5 sp.... Thank you in advance

 

[Slangy]

why did you use the durango for the 5.2 instead of the gc 5.2? I have heard something about starters being in different locations??? I along with another club member here in upstate NY wanna do this swap. did you put different springs up front for the extra weight? are there better years durangos to use than others? is there a difference in using a dakota? i would like to have the 5 sp still and i havent seen a durango in a 5 sp.... Thank you in advance

I went with the durango 5.2 because I found a great deal on it. I actually made money doing the entire swap. It also had an automatic transmission that was mated to a heavier duty NP-231.

As for the springs, I kept the same springs I was originally using up front. I intended to measure and see ho much it dropped with the 5.2 but I forgot in all the chaos. But I can tell you it was not much.

There is no difference in the Dakota and the Durango, the difference is you will be able to find a 5-speed with the Dakota.

You want to look for a donor vehicle later than a 96 I believe after that they went to OBDII which you want if you have a TJ. You sould be looking for a 97-02. Be careful when you are looking though, it is better to find a vehicle without all the bells and whistles. I say this because some of the nicer models had the key fob with the alarm, you do not want this because it means the vehicle is updated with SKIM, to eliminate this you would have to get the ECM flashed. You would know it has it if you installed the engine, started it and it dies in about 6 seconds. This is not good. Another way to tell if the vehicle has SKIM is put the key in the ignition, roll down the windows, lock the doors and get out put your hand in through the window and open the door. If it equipped it will set of the panic alarm. I hope this hepls. If you have any other questions please ask, I will try to remember as much as I can to help you out.

 

[huntmaster86]

would you be interested in splicing two "sets" of harnesses?? how many miles did your donorango have on it? trying o compare prices/milage from there to here. I really appreciate all the help

 

[Slangy]

would you be interested in splicing two "sets" of harnesses?? how many miles did your donorango have on it? trying o compare prices/milage from there to here. I really appreciate all the help

I would hate to take it and have something go wrong. It really is not that hard to do , if you just get the wiring schematics you could easily do it plus it will save you some cash. The problem I saw with paying someone to do it was the shipping cost to get it to someone to do it for me. I weighed each harness and they were each roughly 24 lbs. a piece, the cost of shipping was a deal killer for me. If it doesn't bother you, you could send it to Evan at Backwoods Offroad, he can do it for you. Or you could get ahold of Jordan off Pirate4x4 and see if he would be willing to do it for you http://pirate4x4.com/forum/member.php?u=94368I
I would but like I said I am not sure I am up to the task of messing it up for you
My Durango had 115,000 miles when I bought it. If you do decide to do it yourself I would be happy to help you with any questions.
Good Luck

 

[huntmaster86]

ok prices are pretty close.. i will deff be getting ahold of you once i start this process. did you have any problem with stock axles right off the bat? i haveD30/35 but i know they wont last for ever with the 5.2. Im looking into 60's for it as well ut would have to wait a few months after the swap for cash.

 

[Slangy]

ok prices are pretty close.. i will deff be getting ahold of you once i start this process. did you have any problem with stock axles right off the bat? i haveD30/35 but i know they wont last for ever with the 5.2. Im looking into 60's for it as well ut would have to wait a few months after the swap for cash.

doing it yourself is going to save you about $800. do the harness yourself and take the extra cash and put towards those 60's.
I have the 30 up front as well and have been fine, but then again I am very light on the pedal most of the time. I guess you could say I am kind of a puss. You know when I was all said and done with my swap I was up more than $300. I parted everything off that Durango, it took me a couple months but they are a pretty hot item for parts around here. Plus I still have a couple parts left over that may get me a couple bucks. Take your time and be patient and I think you will come out better than you woould expect. The 5.2 swap pretty easy on the pocket book compared to some of the other swaps you could have picked.

 

[Slangy]

You want to look for a donor vehicle later than a 96 I believe after that they went to OBDII which you want if you have a TJ. You sould be looking for a 97-02. Be careful when you are looking though, it is better to find a vehicle without all the bells and whistles. I say this because some of the nicer models had the key fob with the alarm, you do not want this because it means the vehicle is updated with SKIM, to eliminate this you would have to get the ECM flashed. You would know it has it if you installed the engine, started it and it dies in about 6 seconds. This is not good. Another way to tell if the vehicle has SKIM is put the key in the ignition, roll down the windows, lock the doors and get out put your hand in through the window and open the door. If it equipped it will set of the panic alarm. I hope this hepls. If you have any other questions please ask, I will try to remember as much as I can to help you out.

Not to beat a dead horse here but I have had some questions asked about the SKIM that is equipped on some of the donor vehicles. I was talking with Marty, SoCal over on Pirate and he informed me that "You CAN run the SKIM key/system, either by installing the SKIM module into the ignition key switch bezel from the donor, or by wiring in the SKIM module, with the old donor vehicle's SKIM key ziptied to the module under the dash somewhere. The stock TJ, has the connector near the ignition lock cylinder for the module. A new key can be cut with your mechanical cut, and the SKIM function can be programmed for the donor vehicle's code if you are the legit owner and have the VIN from the Donor."
Just thought I would add this bit of info incase someone ever runs into the problem and needs a solution.

 

[DB556]

I'm working on this same swap in my TJ, and have a question about your diagram, so to just check, your splicing the injectors and sensors into the TJ harness? Then running the TJ harness/plugs into the dodge computer? Are you changing around the wiring in the plugs them selves or in the wires leading up?

I'm about to drop the engine in tomorrow and get the rest of mechanical parts in place on sunday. Then I can start messing with the harness.

Did you run the two charcoal canisters from the durango or just the single stock jeep on for the emissions?

 

[Slangy]

I'm working on this same swap in my TJ, and have a question about your diagram, so to just check, your splicing the injectors and sensors into the TJ harness? Then running the TJ harness/plugs into the dodge computer? Are you changing around the wiring in the plugs them selves or in the wires leading up?

I'm about to drop the engine in tomorrow and get the rest of mechanical parts in place on sunday. Then I can start messing with the harness.

Did you run the two charcoal canisters from the durango or just the single stock jeep on for the emissions?

Yes you splice everything into the tj harness. Then the plugs from the tj harness plug directly into the dodge computer. All the pinouts are identical. The only time I changed the pinouts were when I added the 4 new injectors and the new wiring for the auto trans. I didn't actually change the pinouts I just added the new pins. Just be careful that you get the pins in the right slot. I can't say all pinouts are identical, for instance the oil temp pinout for the tj should be the same as the dodge pinout. Just make sure to check your schematics. It is actually pretty simple. If you have any questions keep on asking. Good luck

 

[DB556]

Thanks for the information, Still haven't got the engine in. My cousin had to borrow back his engine lift which isn't much of a problem as I have to drill out a exhaust bolt, now broke it off when I was taking off the old headers.

Another question I have the same advance adapters engine mounts you used. Did you weld in you engine mounts at a angle or are they level?