General Tech What did you work on Today?

Thinking of buying a Monaco. I've seen this kind of behavior more on RV forums than others, like irv2. I think it has to do with the know-it-all attitude of some older guys. Now I have to join this just for the entertainment value!
 
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zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
This is just one of the many reasons why I use forums and not facebook.

I don't spend much time on FB. We mainly have it to keep in touch with our RV'ing friends as most of them full-time. I just joined the Monaco FB page because I am quite knowledgeable about Monaco coaches and thought I could contribute, however, I am about ready to give all of the above up and just focus on my own shit and let everyone else fend for themselves rather than trying to help. I don't need that kind of negativity in my life, especially when I was trying to show someone an easier way to do something.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Thinking of buying a Monaco. I've seen behavior more on RV forums than others, like irv2. Now I have to join this just for the entertainment value!

I have been able to tolerate it and have a good group of people that I exchange information with on irv2.com. However, I left rv.net several years ago due to this idiotic behavior and refuse to ever go back there again. I was on rv.net forum for nearly 10 years and had just had enough one day.

Mike
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Last night I finished up the front end and torqued the tires/wheels back on.

I reinstalled the hulla skirt and mudflap on the driver’s side.
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Then reinstalled the driver’s steer tire and torqued to 450 ft/lbs before wiping it down with some Final Inspection.
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I then moved over to the passenger’s side and took a few minutes to fix my clunking noise that developed late last year.

I noticed the last couple of trips that when driving slowly through campgrounds and especially when going over a speed bump I could hear a slight clunk. It sounded like it was right under the wife’s co-pilot seat but she did not hear it. Upon arriving home I crawled around under it and noticed the upper shock had play at the eyelet mount. It wasn’t severe but enough to bug me. I knew I’d be getting into the suspension early this year so I figured I would correct it then.

After taking some measurements I decided the easiest solution would be to machine a sleeve to compensate for the wear in the upper shock eyelet.

The ID of the steel shock sleeve was .714” so I machined the OD of this sleeve to .715” for a slight interference fit. The shock mounting stud measured .677” so I machined the ID of the sleeve to .680” for a slip fit which would allow a small amount of anti-seize.
ecb53936eb432479d539e9e2d6704a96.jpg


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I then used a few drops of Loctite 640 sleeve retainer.
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Pressed the sleeve into the shock.
421e0c997e0cc0d95c25655b5519c9ce.jpg


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Trimmed the excess to flush.
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Next I cleaned the ID of the sleeve with some brake wash and applied a liberal coating of anti-seize and reinstalled the shock. Loose figment is gone as should be my clunk.

I then installed the hulla skirt, mudflap and tire/wheel and the passenger’s side was complete.

Now I can move on to the rear suspension as soon as time allows.

Thanks for looking.

Mike
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Last night I finished up the front end and torqued the tires/wheels back on.

I reinstalled the hulla skirt and mudflap on the driver’s side.
7fe634f14e20fe26dc050597010b9d3d.jpg


Then reinstalled the driver’s steer tire and torqued to 450 ft/lbs before wiping it down with some Final Inspection.
9a8484f379cf5c5d41cf58bb1493d521.jpg


I then moved over to the passenger’s side and took a few minutes to fix my clunking noise that developed late last year.

I noticed the last couple of trips that when driving slowly through campgrounds and especially when going over a speed bump I could hear a slight clunk. It sounded like it was right under the wife’s co-pilot seat but she did not hear it. Upon arriving home I crawled around under it and noticed the upper shock had play at the eyelet mount. It wasn’t severe but enough to bug me. I knew I’d be getting into the suspension early this year so I figured I would correct it then.

After taking some measurements I decided the easiest solution would be to machine a sleeve to compensate for the wear in the upper shock eyelet.

The ID of the steel shock sleeve was .714” so I machined the OD of this sleeve to .715” for a slight interference fit. The shock mounting stud measured .677” so I machined the ID of the sleeve to .680” for a slip fit which would allow a small amount of anti-seize.
ecb53936eb432479d539e9e2d6704a96.jpg


34460130b0efe5060f8c0067afcefd12.jpg


I then used a few drops of Loctite 640 sleeve retainer.
0755521eb527079f640ec005da2a8950.jpg


Pressed the sleeve into the shock.
421e0c997e0cc0d95c25655b5519c9ce.jpg


8e2fe90d1336dc3c060ade0d40887f04.jpg


Trimmed the excess to flush.
783a1e2c238f46541cdb1398dd357ce8.jpg


Next I cleaned the ID of the sleeve with some brake wash and applied a liberal coating of anti-seize and reinstalled the shock. Loose figment is gone as should be my clunk.

I then installed the hulla skirt, mudflap and tire/wheel and the passenger’s side was complete.

Now I can move on to the rear suspension as soon as time allows.

Thanks for looking.

Mike
You air spring method looks to be the common sense way to do it.


I think a lot of people are quickly scrolling through the innernetz all day long looking for errors to jump on and call out in order to make themselves seem important. They're not truly engaged and they trigger on a single pic that they think has a mistake in it, and just switch to E-battle mode. RV forums and groups are some of the worst I've been a part of. Facebook absolutely sucks for searching content for tech, so users are forced to post the same questions over and over again.

RME seems to be the most diverse and accepting group of users I've come across. I posted my trailer build a few other places and have since deleted those postings because of the close-minded users filling up those groups. It's like they hate thinking.
 

DAA

Well-Known Member
While you have the exhaust dropped, did you inspect the cats for deterioration? You might be able to get a mirror in there and take a peek. I've seen quite a few TJs with these clogged up.

I didn't think to inspect them. But, they were replaced about two years ago, so they should be fine. I did think to clearance the down pipes from the oil pan though - the replacement pipe was making firm contact and the NVH wasn't awesome. Also surprised how far it had started to wear through the oil pan at that spot!

- DAA
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
You air spring method looks to be the common sense way to do it.


I think a lot of people are quickly scrolling through the innernetz all day long looking for errors to jump on and call out in order to make themselves seem important. They're not truly engaged and they trigger on a single pic that they think has a mistake in it, and just switch to E-battle mode. RV forums and groups are some of the worst I've been a part of. Facebook absolutely sucks for searching content for tech, so users are forced to post the same questions over and over again.

RME seems to be the most diverse and accepting group of users I've come across. I posted my trailer build a few other places and have since deleted those postings because of the close-minded users filling up those groups. It's like they hate thinking.

I completely agree Jeremy. That is probably why I usually don't post on FB and will be deleting myself from that group. My wife and I mostly use it to keep track of our RV'ing friends and don't post much. I never use it for searching for technical data but I was hoping to help others on the Monaco group, but they can suck it.

By the way, I find it hard to take you serious looking at your avatar.......it's somewhat of a distraction.:rofl:

Mik
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
I completely agree Jeremy. That is probably why I usually don't post on FB and will be deleting myself from that group. My wife and I mostly use it to keep track of our RV'ing friends and don't post much. I never use it for searching for technical data but I was hoping to help others on the Monaco group, but they can suck it.

By the way, I find it hard to take you serious looking at your avatar.......it's somewhat of a distraction.:rofl:

Mik
That's pretty much my personality. Nobody should take me seriously most of the time. 😂
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I had a guy cancel on me last night that I was supposed to do a welding job for so I decided to tackle the drive axle air bags on the coach. I thought maybe I could get one side done but ended up getting all four on the drive axle replaced.

The rears were easier than the front ones. I got all four replaced in about three hours. All that is left are the two for the tag axle. I’m 80% done with the air bag replacement project.

Removal of the drive tires/wheels make access easy.
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f5f109d97c491ccfeafd0e9cbe7fd632.jpg


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Rear air bags were slightly worse than the fronts as far as condition.
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d08f20ecb14e9bf17886fe9c8c22219b.jpg


Air bag replaced and shock bolted back in place.
b6d7079732e212a1dc99ac0cdccfe462.jpg


Drive axle rear air bag was the easiest of any of them to access. Didn’t need to remove the tag tire & wheel but having the drive axle tires/wheels removed made it a breeze to replace.
1ee1f5f8feaeb6b95947c674850cbb96.jpg


Zipped the nuts off with my Snap-on FAR72 3/8” air ratchet.
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debc7e708b0e5b6f41f765ee2913ddb2.jpg


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After reinstalling the passenger side drive tires & wheels I moved on to the driver’s side. The rear driver’s side drive axle bag appears to have been struck by something and even did damage all the way to the cords. I noticed this last year and this was the one I was most concerned about.
dca702aebaae7b32f0f455bd4343309f.jpg


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b8c938885d9ef8307582f48929280686.jpg


Only two remaining.
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Thanks for looking.

Mike
 

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
I'm impressed an air ratchet removed those nuts. They are usually rust welded on pretty good. I've had to torch them off in the past. And there is never room for an impact gun.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I'm impressed an air ratchet removed those nuts. They are usually rust welded on pretty good. I've had to torch them off in the past. And there is never room for an impact gun.
I was pleasantly surprised as well. On our OTR trucks at work they haven't been too awfully bad but I thought this thing being 19 years old with 130k miles and driven in all sorts of weather as we used this coach for snowmobiling the first several years we owned it. I used a 1/2" flex head ratchet to just break them loose then the air ratchet zipped them right off, the ones I could actually get the air ratchet on anyways. There were two that I could not get to with any of my air tools and had to be wrenched off manually.


I'm trying to wrap me head around a person viewing a Mike writeup and saying to themselves, "this dude is a hack imma call him out". 🤣

Thank you. I'm convinced there are some people who are so miserable that they sit around looking at pictures and just trying to find something to call others out on. The sad thing is that then more people jump on the bandwagon and none of them seem to have any idea of how to perform said job, they just want to call others out to make themselves feel more knowledgeable or more important I guess.

Granted, I am sure there are some unsafe and questionable work being done that could be called out but when the details are given including pictures it simply doesn't make any sense why these people can't keep their comments to themselves. I guess they feel what they have to say is so important that they don't take the time to really analyze what is being provided nor depicted in the pictures.

I appreciate the comments.

Mike
 

JeeperG

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverdale
Did this the other day, instead of cutting up the original brace/splash shield we made a new one that mimicks the original with some bead rolling. It doesn't sit at the same angle but should do its job, I'll have to remove tire, wheel and three bolts to get to the battery box. I can reach the top of the battery over the shield.
PXL_20210327_181753277.jpg
 

OCNORB

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
Alpine
Five words I never thought I’d say;

I bought a dump truck.

Yes. A $500 dump truck.

Last night I put fresh gas in it and found that the electric fuel pump the PO has installed would not pull fuel up to the carb. ( It’s mounted way too high above the tank)

I decided to prime the pump and hose by putting a little fuel back down the line. It worked and started pumping fuel from the disconnected carb feed.
Hooked it back up and really expected to just run into “ the next problem”, but sweet night it fired over in 2 cranks like it had never sat. No bad noises, no backfires, just purring as purry as a 1953 International ever has!

5A0F359E-9BE6-49ED-84FE-625EDF668E37.jpeg
Picture is of the extraction success. It was wedged between that house and the weed trees on the right that had grown up into the side of it.
I wanted it because it has such a great patina. Didn’t think it would be a runner.
 
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OCNORB

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
Alpine
Nice score OCNORB! Are you keeping the bed as is or planning a patina rod of some sort?
My original plan was to just use the cab. Yesterday I tested the pto and hydraulics and it all works quite well. It is a Heil dump bed.
So I’m undecided and a little torn on what I’m going to do with it. I really don’t need a dump truck, but it is kinda cool.
 
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