Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
Well, son of a bitch... 🤔😳
General Tech What did you work on Today?
- Thread starter Gravy
- Start date
- Location
- West Haven, UT
With the air drier so hard to access on these Monaco/Roadmaster S-Series chassis, I figured while I had the left rear tag tire/wheel off I would rebuild the purge valve. It hasn’t given me any issues but over time they can begin to build up deposits in the valve itself and then not seal completely resulting in an air leak. With 130k mikes on the coach I opted to tear it apart, clean it and reassemble with new software components.
The Wabco/Meritor kit that I purchased came with all of the internals so in they went.
It was due as there was some buildup just waiting to cause an air leak. Nothing too awfully bad though, just enough that I feel good about my decision to rebuild it.
New parts in the background, old in the foreground.
I’ve seen people leave these steel washers out by mistake but it’s important to put them in place to keep the steel spring from gouging into and wearing the brass valve as well as the plastic cone.
One steel washer goes into the seat of the plastic diffuser cone. I put a little of the supplied grease on the washer which helps hold things together during assembly.
The other steel washer goes on the brass valve, again using some grease to hold everything together plus lube then new o-rings and seal.
One o-ring on either side of the steel seat before installing and the grease helps hold things in place. Usually if doing this on the bench it’s not so important but I didn’t feel like removing the entire air drier to just rebuild the purge valve so I’ll be inserting the parts up into the drier and fighting gravity.
Parts greased up and installed into position.
Now comes the fun part and the hardest part when doing this on the coach. The plastic diffuser end has to go in place and you must compress the spring enough to install the heavy snap-ring into place. If your lucky enough to have three hands you’re all set otherwise you have to devise a plan to push the diffuser up into the bore far enough to then install the snap ring and the spring is fairly stiff.
I grabbed a piece of steel tubing approx. 2’ long that just fit around the reduced section of the diffuser.
Then grabbed my floor jack and positioned it directly below the purge valve. I raised the floor jack GENTLY and just enough to push the plastic diffuser into place. Be sure to put the snap ring over the tubing prior to using the floor jack.
Then simply use a pair of snap ring pliers to compress and put into place. Easy peasy.
Purge valve rebuild complete.
Thanks for looking.
Mike
The Wabco/Meritor kit that I purchased came with all of the internals so in they went.
It was due as there was some buildup just waiting to cause an air leak. Nothing too awfully bad though, just enough that I feel good about my decision to rebuild it.
New parts in the background, old in the foreground.
I’ve seen people leave these steel washers out by mistake but it’s important to put them in place to keep the steel spring from gouging into and wearing the brass valve as well as the plastic cone.
One steel washer goes into the seat of the plastic diffuser cone. I put a little of the supplied grease on the washer which helps hold things together during assembly.
The other steel washer goes on the brass valve, again using some grease to hold everything together plus lube then new o-rings and seal.
One o-ring on either side of the steel seat before installing and the grease helps hold things in place. Usually if doing this on the bench it’s not so important but I didn’t feel like removing the entire air drier to just rebuild the purge valve so I’ll be inserting the parts up into the drier and fighting gravity.
Parts greased up and installed into position.
Now comes the fun part and the hardest part when doing this on the coach. The plastic diffuser end has to go in place and you must compress the spring enough to install the heavy snap-ring into place. If your lucky enough to have three hands you’re all set otherwise you have to devise a plan to push the diffuser up into the bore far enough to then install the snap ring and the spring is fairly stiff.
I grabbed a piece of steel tubing approx. 2’ long that just fit around the reduced section of the diffuser.
Then grabbed my floor jack and positioned it directly below the purge valve. I raised the floor jack GENTLY and just enough to push the plastic diffuser into place. Be sure to put the snap ring over the tubing prior to using the floor jack.
Then simply use a pair of snap ring pliers to compress and put into place. Easy peasy.
Purge valve rebuild complete.
Thanks for looking.
Mike
jeepin4x4james
WAAAAA
- Location
- Bluffdale, UT
With the air drier so hard to access on these Monaco/Roadmaster S-Series chassis, I figured while I had the left rear tag tire/wheel off I would rebuild the purge valve. It hasn’t given me any issues but over time they can begin to build up deposits in the valve itself and then not seal completely resulting in an air leak. With 130k mikes on the coach I opted to tear it apart, clean it and reassemble with new software components.
The Wabco/Meritor kit that I purchased came with all of the internals so in they went.
It was due as there was some buildup just waiting to cause an air leak. Nothing too awfully bad though, just enough that I feel good about my decision to rebuild it.
New parts in the background, old in the foreground.
I’ve seen people leave these steel washers out by mistake but it’s important to put them in place to keep the steel spring from gouging into and wearing the brass valve as well as the plastic cone.
One steel washer goes into the seat of the plastic diffuser cone. I put a little of the supplied grease on the washer which helps hold things together during assembly.
The other steel washer goes on the brass valve, again using some grease to hold everything together plus lube then new o-rings and seal.
One o-ring on either side of the steel seat before installing and the grease helps hold things in place. Usually if doing this on the bench it’s not so important but I didn’t feel like removing the entire air drier to just rebuild the purge valve so I’ll be inserting the parts up into the drier and fighting gravity.
Parts greased up and installed into position.
Now comes the fun part and the hardest part when doing this on the coach. The plastic diffuser end has to go in place and you must compress the spring enough to install the heavy snap-ring into place. If your lucky enough to have three hands you’re all set otherwise you have to devise a plan to push the diffuser up into the bore far enough to then install the snap ring and the spring is fairly stiff.
I grabbed a piece of steel tubing approx. 2’ long that just fit around the reduced section of the diffuser.
Then grabbed my floor jack and positioned it directly below the purge valve. I raised the floor jack GENTLY and just enough to push the plastic diffuser into place. Be sure to put the snap ring over the tubing prior to using the floor jack.
Then simply use a pair of snap ring pliers to compress and put into place. Easy peasy.
Purge valve rebuild complete.
Thanks for looking.
Mike
A little hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like your air dryer has a turbo cutoff valve as well... if you’re in there for maintenance, may want to change that too.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
You might want to replace those battery terminals with some bolt on style 🤣I'd like to counter (err, I mean dumb down this thread) Mike's Monica "hack work" with my $5.99 battery tie down so I could run a bigger AGM battery in my Samurai.
I didn't want some blingy tie-down or any sort of box. I walked a Pick-n-Pull and found this hold down from a Durango, I believe. The tie-down hooks were from Napa. I chopped them to fit the Samurai's battery mount tray. One was cut and re-bent and the other was shortened at the threads.
View attachment 136279
It came out pretty factory-looking.
View attachment 136278
I'm learning... next time I'll dust everything off.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
Ah, it’s the little things in life... 🤷♂️🤘
Probably could have bought a real gold coin for the cost of that shiny ktm part...
anderson750
I'm working on it Rose
- Location
- Price, Utah
Probably could have bought a real gold coin for the cost of that shiny ktm part...
Probably still less expensive than the carbon fiber parts I have bought from Pro Carbon out of the UK. But they have been worth every penny. Amazing how much better a true carbon fiber part holds up compared to a fiberglass/resin piece with a single layer of carbon fiber.
85CUCVKRAWLER
Active Member
- Location
- Tooele
this whole thing has been a pita and i havent even started on the wire harness yet. Oh and joy, i found out my bell housing has a stripped hole in it and my np205 needs machined for a bigger bearing. cant wait.
Really im just complaining and tired of being in the garage.
Really im just complaining and tired of being in the garage.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
Welcome to LS Swapping. I have HP Tuners if you want to unlock your VATS and turn off the emissions stuff. I'm pretty new with it but I know how to do those two things.
- Location
- The Village of Kay
This wasn't today, but I have been lax in posting updates...
Friday night I set out assemble my hubs and install the ABS relocation kit, and to modify my dust guards to work with the abs relocation kit.
New tone ring mounted to the hub.
I spent entirely too much time cutting and modifying the dust shield on the passenger side to work with the abs relocation, only to realize after full assembly, when slipping the new rotor on the hub, there was no way it would work with the bigger rotor...🤦♂️
Frustrated, I went to the driver's side and tore that side down to replace the axle seal and reassemble with the new hubs and brakes. I didn't take any pictures of the process as it is the same as the passenger side. I threw some acorn nuts on the rotor to hold it in place until I blead the brakes.
You can see where the wheel sensor is moved from inside the knuckle to outside, picking up the new tone ring on the hub rather than the tone ring on the birfield.
Then I went back to the passenger side, tore it down to the knuckle again to remove the d#$% dust shield, and reassembled it fully again.
Then i replaced the rear calipers to prepare for the new master cylinder and brake bleeding.
I went to bed about 4 am Sat morning, pissed I had wasted so much time on the dust shield mods only to scrap them.
Saturday afternoon, a good friend came over and helped bench bleed the master, get it installed, and then bleed the whole system. This process took a lot longer than I anticipated, but we had to modify the brake lines to the Master to work with the T100 master vs. the 80 series master.
After buttoning it all up, we went for a ride. As I was backing out of the garage, it felt like the cruiser was struggling to back up the slight incline in my driveway. Once on the road, the truck felt like it had no power. My buddy and I looked at each other puzzled as to what was wrong, then it dawned on me...I had installed the new selectable hubs, but left them unlocked and hadn't installed the part-time 4wd tcase yet 🤦♂️. We jumped out and locked the hubs in, and away we went!
We buzzed around the block to see how the new brakes worked and then paused for a photo.
Content with the days work, and exhausted from the long night before, we called it a day.
Friday night I set out assemble my hubs and install the ABS relocation kit, and to modify my dust guards to work with the abs relocation kit.
New tone ring mounted to the hub.
I spent entirely too much time cutting and modifying the dust shield on the passenger side to work with the abs relocation, only to realize after full assembly, when slipping the new rotor on the hub, there was no way it would work with the bigger rotor...🤦♂️
Frustrated, I went to the driver's side and tore that side down to replace the axle seal and reassemble with the new hubs and brakes. I didn't take any pictures of the process as it is the same as the passenger side. I threw some acorn nuts on the rotor to hold it in place until I blead the brakes.
You can see where the wheel sensor is moved from inside the knuckle to outside, picking up the new tone ring on the hub rather than the tone ring on the birfield.
Then I went back to the passenger side, tore it down to the knuckle again to remove the d#$% dust shield, and reassembled it fully again.
Then i replaced the rear calipers to prepare for the new master cylinder and brake bleeding.
I went to bed about 4 am Sat morning, pissed I had wasted so much time on the dust shield mods only to scrap them.
Saturday afternoon, a good friend came over and helped bench bleed the master, get it installed, and then bleed the whole system. This process took a lot longer than I anticipated, but we had to modify the brake lines to the Master to work with the T100 master vs. the 80 series master.
After buttoning it all up, we went for a ride. As I was backing out of the garage, it felt like the cruiser was struggling to back up the slight incline in my driveway. Once on the road, the truck felt like it had no power. My buddy and I looked at each other puzzled as to what was wrong, then it dawned on me...I had installed the new selectable hubs, but left them unlocked and hadn't installed the part-time 4wd tcase yet 🤦♂️. We jumped out and locked the hubs in, and away we went!
We buzzed around the block to see how the new brakes worked and then paused for a photo.
Content with the days work, and exhausted from the long night before, we called it a day.
Last edited:
- Location
- The Village of Kay
Today, I went and had 37's installed. Now I am REALLY motivated to swap tcases. I'm hoping to get the one in the truck removed tonight, and install the rebuilt one tomorrow.
A few progression pics since I have owned this rig.
33's when I bought it in Jan 2018:
35's in Dec 2020 (new lift installed Mar 2020):
37's this morning:
Getting so close to having this dialed in where I want it!
A few progression pics since I have owned this rig.
33's when I bought it in Jan 2018:
35's in Dec 2020 (new lift installed Mar 2020):
37's this morning:
Getting so close to having this dialed in where I want it!
Last edited:
37's just look proper on that rig. Looking good!
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
I made some accessories for Brian's neighbor grandpa Than. The old hard ass said his new hook wasn't hold his chainsaw and wouldn't carry firewood well.
http://midutahradio.com/news/local-news/richfield-farmer-loses-hand/
I've been playing with acid to strip rust and mill scale lately and have been really happy with the results.
http://midutahradio.com/news/local-news/richfield-farmer-loses-hand/
I've been playing with acid to strip rust and mill scale lately and have been really happy with the results.
What is that last picture of?
- Location
- The Land Northward (Bountiful), Utah
Are you using muriatic or ferric chloride?
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
Muriatic
- Location
- Richfield, UT.
It's my lathe tool holder holder. I tighten up tabs the holders slide on. I posted pics on it before. I cut one for a friend with the tabs slightly wider so the holder couldn't be knocked off and was jelly his 2.0 version was better than mine. Lol
- Location
- The Village of Kay
Um, I don't think I've bedded the brakes. On the initial drive, it felt like it did before - adequate. I may try swapping the booster out, or maybe I set my expectations too high. Time will tell. I haven't put many miles on it since I wrapped it up Saturday.