- Location
- West Haven, UT
Thanks guys. That was a fun project.
Mike
Mike
General Tech What did you work on Today?
- Thread starter Gravy
- Start date
NYCEGUY01
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Willard, UT
Im digging it so far. Its not even really pissing me off that much ive been working on it after i picked it up. Lol
I even spent 30 min or so this morning screwing around on waiting for a conference call to start.
First i started her up and let it warm up on hi idle.
I disconected the cable for the heat door and as suspected, the cable wasnt quite pulling it all the way closed. A quick 5 min adjustment behind the glovebox and the heater was much improved.
The motor was still not building much heat though.
At that point I fabricated a custom horizontially sliding adjustabe heat air valve for the radiator incoming air so i could precisly control the amount of cold air going through the radiator.
Otherwise known as a big piece of cardboard I cut from the side of the box the new radiator came in..LOL
A quick test drive and before and after check of the dash gauge and the infared temp gun on the thermostat housing revealed that the cab was now toasty warm inside...
I still have 27 more projects on the list but its a start....
I even spent 30 min or so this morning screwing around on waiting for a conference call to start.
First i started her up and let it warm up on hi idle.
I disconected the cable for the heat door and as suspected, the cable wasnt quite pulling it all the way closed. A quick 5 min adjustment behind the glovebox and the heater was much improved.
The motor was still not building much heat though.
At that point I fabricated a custom horizontially sliding adjustabe heat air valve for the radiator incoming air so i could precisly control the amount of cold air going through the radiator.
Otherwise known as a big piece of cardboard I cut from the side of the box the new radiator came in..LOL
A quick test drive and before and after check of the dash gauge and the infared temp gun on the thermostat housing revealed that the cab was now toasty warm inside...
I still have 27 more projects on the list but its a start....
Attachments
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Love the custom heat valve. 👍
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
You wouldn't believe some of the places I've seen pigeons land and nest at our stores. 7" needles everywhere and they will thread it, get behind it, and almost prefer it.
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Last night I had to rebuild my 30+ year old slide hammer. While extracting an outer rear axle wheel bearings and seals a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the nut on my slide hammer had come loose. Upon attempting to tighten it I discovered that the nut had stripped and didn't want to tighten very well. I didn't have time to mess with it at the time so I used it as it was then wrote the item down on my white board so I would remember.
Well last night when I walked into the storage bay to turn the air on I noticed it on my white board and figured I would take a few minutes to address my slide hammer issue and cross it off the to do list. It turned out to be a little more than a few minutes but I like the way it turned out and it will probably outlive me now.
If I'm being honest, this isn't a high dollar slide hammer but it has sentimental value to me. It is more of a hodge podge of pieces I threw together at the beginning of my career to make this slide hammer. I acquired a slightly used 3-3/4 pound weight from my Snap-on dealer at the time and then I used an old shank that a co-worker was throwing away in which I made a new handle that just threaded on with a large washer and nut.
Probably my biggest pet peeve about this old slide hammer was that the shank was 5/8" diameter and the bore in the Snap-on slide weight was 3/4" diameter so the weight slopped around quite a bit on the shank.
Nut is stripped and rather than just replace the nut I opted to start over.
I grabbed a length of .750" O1 drill rod off my shelf and single point threaded 16 TPI on the lathe.
Grabbed a 5" length of 1.125" diameter round stock from the drawer as well as a piece of 1.5" diameter 1" long to slice a piece off .375" thick as the contact point.
Welded the 1.5" diameter piece to the handle.
At the business end of the shank I drilled and tapped a hole for a piece of grade 8 threaded rod to be inserted.
All of the components completed and ready to assemble.
The 3/4" shank is soooooo much nicer with the fitment of the weight. It slides so much smoother now and no flopping around. I should have done this about 3 decades ago rather than merely put up with it each time I used it because I didn't want to take the time to fix it properly.
Placed back in the slide hammer and attachment drawer.
Thanks for looking.
Mike
Well last night when I walked into the storage bay to turn the air on I noticed it on my white board and figured I would take a few minutes to address my slide hammer issue and cross it off the to do list. It turned out to be a little more than a few minutes but I like the way it turned out and it will probably outlive me now.
If I'm being honest, this isn't a high dollar slide hammer but it has sentimental value to me. It is more of a hodge podge of pieces I threw together at the beginning of my career to make this slide hammer. I acquired a slightly used 3-3/4 pound weight from my Snap-on dealer at the time and then I used an old shank that a co-worker was throwing away in which I made a new handle that just threaded on with a large washer and nut.
Probably my biggest pet peeve about this old slide hammer was that the shank was 5/8" diameter and the bore in the Snap-on slide weight was 3/4" diameter so the weight slopped around quite a bit on the shank.
Nut is stripped and rather than just replace the nut I opted to start over.
I grabbed a length of .750" O1 drill rod off my shelf and single point threaded 16 TPI on the lathe.
Grabbed a 5" length of 1.125" diameter round stock from the drawer as well as a piece of 1.5" diameter 1" long to slice a piece off .375" thick as the contact point.
Welded the 1.5" diameter piece to the handle.
At the business end of the shank I drilled and tapped a hole for a piece of grade 8 threaded rod to be inserted.
All of the components completed and ready to assemble.
The 3/4" shank is soooooo much nicer with the fitment of the weight. It slides so much smoother now and no flopping around. I should have done this about 3 decades ago rather than merely put up with it each time I used it because I didn't want to take the time to fix it properly.
Placed back in the slide hammer and attachment drawer.
Thanks for looking.
Mike
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
I have an old slide hammer that was cobbled together by someone many years ago. The handle is a different design than yours, but the 5/8 to 3/4" sloppy fit is the same as your old one. I need to mod mine for all of the same reasons. I like yours better for the ergonomics and drawer fitment.
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Thanks Jeremy. I guess I didn't realize that a 5/8" shank and 3/4" bore were common practices in slide hammers. I just thought it was my thrown together cobbled tool. I haven't used it yet but it sure slides nice and smooth now with tighter tolerance between the shank and weight. It's not so tight that it drags and still slides easily without resistance but doesn't flop around like it did.
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
I was forced to wait a couple days for the roof to thaw out before wrapping up the final chimney stuff. This gave me another opportunity to open up another can of worms. 🤷♂️ Will anything be cooked on it? In a post-apocalyptic situation, still a hard maybe. 😂
Attachments
- Location
- West Jordan
Your OCD/attention to detail always makes me smile.
glockman
I hate Jeep trucks
- Location
- Pleasant Grove
That is one damn fine looking dust collector.
You might as well just start making wood burning stoves for the upper class at this point. Holy crap dude. Looks really nice
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
Your words hurt Chad…. but it’s mostly true. 😂
Vonski
nothing to see here...
- Location
- Payson, Utah
Thx man. 😎 Mental illness comes in many forms and varying amounts. 😉
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Had a gentleman bring me a 2005 Dodge 2500 a couple of nights ago. Main customer complaint was that it was hard to get out of Park. I've done a few of these where the problem was in the column at the key tumbler.
Pretty clean truck with only 160k miles on it and appears to be his baby.
This pawl is usually the culprit as it blocks the shift lever from coming out of the Park position.
When the key tumbler assembly is turned it moves this horizontal mechanism which in turn moved the pawl out of the way from the lever. The grease usually gets hard and/or collects dirt causing this mechanism to fail to slide. This usually requires a quick cleaning and new lubrication and you are good to go.
Pawl retracted with the turning of the key thus moving it below the plane to allow the shift lever to move past it.
After discovering that there was nothing wrong with the key tumbler interlock I remembered these also having a brake interlock so went there next. I could feel and hear it clicking with the depression of the brake pedal but thought I would pop the small solenoid off the shift cable to verify full release. Sure enough, it was also working properly.
At this point I realized it was nothing in the column and thought I would take the shift cable out of the equation by popping it off at the transmission and the shifter in the column moved freely. This led me to realize the problem must be in the transmission itself. Maybe something binding with the parking pawl or the rooster comb/detent assembly. Unfortunately the valve body has to come down on these 48RE transmissions because the shift linkage is above the valve body.
Time to rack the truck.
I started by removing the TTVA (Transmission Throttle Valve Assembly) from the shift shaft and the side of the transmission case and laid it aside. No need to unplug it just prop it next to the driveshaft out of the way. Removed the shift lever and then dropped the pan. Oil was dark and needed to be changed but not terrible. Minimal and normal sludge in the pan.
Next item was to drop the filter.
Now removing the fasteners holding the valve body to the case.
Valve body out and on the bench. Also the accumulator piston and spring removed as they usually fall out anyways when the valve body is removed.
Stay tuned for more.....
Pretty clean truck with only 160k miles on it and appears to be his baby.
This pawl is usually the culprit as it blocks the shift lever from coming out of the Park position.
When the key tumbler assembly is turned it moves this horizontal mechanism which in turn moved the pawl out of the way from the lever. The grease usually gets hard and/or collects dirt causing this mechanism to fail to slide. This usually requires a quick cleaning and new lubrication and you are good to go.
Pawl retracted with the turning of the key thus moving it below the plane to allow the shift lever to move past it.
After discovering that there was nothing wrong with the key tumbler interlock I remembered these also having a brake interlock so went there next. I could feel and hear it clicking with the depression of the brake pedal but thought I would pop the small solenoid off the shift cable to verify full release. Sure enough, it was also working properly.
At this point I realized it was nothing in the column and thought I would take the shift cable out of the equation by popping it off at the transmission and the shifter in the column moved freely. This led me to realize the problem must be in the transmission itself. Maybe something binding with the parking pawl or the rooster comb/detent assembly. Unfortunately the valve body has to come down on these 48RE transmissions because the shift linkage is above the valve body.
Time to rack the truck.
I started by removing the TTVA (Transmission Throttle Valve Assembly) from the shift shaft and the side of the transmission case and laid it aside. No need to unplug it just prop it next to the driveshaft out of the way. Removed the shift lever and then dropped the pan. Oil was dark and needed to be changed but not terrible. Minimal and normal sludge in the pan.
Next item was to drop the filter.
Now removing the fasteners holding the valve body to the case.
Valve body out and on the bench. Also the accumulator piston and spring removed as they usually fall out anyways when the valve body is removed.
Stay tuned for more.....
- Location
- West Haven, UT
Continuing on.
This is what I found. The detent ball was loose fitting in the bore which also resulted in the rooster comb being work severely.
With the rooster comb out of the way and the spring behind the detent ball removed you can see the extreme wear in the detent bore. I have rebuilt a few of these 47RH, 47RE and 48RE transmissions and have not run across this yet. However, with a quick Google search I discovered that this is very common. I ordered a repair kit that comes with a new rooster comb, seals and a bullet style of detent which uses the length of the bore vs. just the opening and appears to be a permanent fix for this issue. I tried my local dealer but the rooster comb cannot be purchased separately from the valve body so this was the next best option.
I forgot how clean my tools get after being treated to ATF due to the detergents in automatic transmission fluid. I don't think they've been this clean in years.
The secondary item the owner wanted me to check were his front suspension. Evidently he had it worked on late last year and they told him it needed ball joints on driver's side and he didn't trust them. Sure enough there was some significant play in the driver's side ball joints. I propped up the driver's side slightly with my modified pole jack to keep fluids in the differential and prevent them from coming out past the inner seals.
Noticed that the brake pads were also shot. He definitely got all the use out of these.
My stubby 1/2" drive impact has sure come in handy the last couple of jobs. Maybe I should have bought one of these sooner.
Grabbed the air hammer to break the corrosion and get the unit bearing/axle shaft assembly out of the housing and knuckle.
Unit bearing and axle shaft assembly removed and set aside.
Knuckle removed and resting on the pole jack which now gives me access to the ball joints for replacement.
While standing at the solvent tank cleaning parts and before closing up the shop for the evening I had to snap a picture of the mountains at sunset. Looking out the east side of my shop at the west face of the Wasatch Mountains and they were glowing as the sun was piercing through the clouds. The picture really doesn't do it justice.
Thanks for looking. More to come once parts arrive. Unfortunately the truck is now taking up valuable space on my lift.
Mike
This is what I found. The detent ball was loose fitting in the bore which also resulted in the rooster comb being work severely.
With the rooster comb out of the way and the spring behind the detent ball removed you can see the extreme wear in the detent bore. I have rebuilt a few of these 47RH, 47RE and 48RE transmissions and have not run across this yet. However, with a quick Google search I discovered that this is very common. I ordered a repair kit that comes with a new rooster comb, seals and a bullet style of detent which uses the length of the bore vs. just the opening and appears to be a permanent fix for this issue. I tried my local dealer but the rooster comb cannot be purchased separately from the valve body so this was the next best option.
I forgot how clean my tools get after being treated to ATF due to the detergents in automatic transmission fluid. I don't think they've been this clean in years.
The secondary item the owner wanted me to check were his front suspension. Evidently he had it worked on late last year and they told him it needed ball joints on driver's side and he didn't trust them. Sure enough there was some significant play in the driver's side ball joints. I propped up the driver's side slightly with my modified pole jack to keep fluids in the differential and prevent them from coming out past the inner seals.
Noticed that the brake pads were also shot. He definitely got all the use out of these.
My stubby 1/2" drive impact has sure come in handy the last couple of jobs. Maybe I should have bought one of these sooner.
Grabbed the air hammer to break the corrosion and get the unit bearing/axle shaft assembly out of the housing and knuckle.
Unit bearing and axle shaft assembly removed and set aside.
Knuckle removed and resting on the pole jack which now gives me access to the ball joints for replacement.
While standing at the solvent tank cleaning parts and before closing up the shop for the evening I had to snap a picture of the mountains at sunset. Looking out the east side of my shop at the west face of the Wasatch Mountains and they were glowing as the sun was piercing through the clouds. The picture really doesn't do it justice.
Thanks for looking. More to come once parts arrive. Unfortunately the truck is now taking up valuable space on my lift.
Mike
XJEEPER
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland Springs
Thanks for the machine work on the inserts!