Recent content by kb7sei

Thanks for all the input guys. Anyone have any idea on tube pricing or sources? I'd like to have some idea what I'm looking at there as well.

I'm looking at a JD2 or Pro-Tools bender setup. If I only get 1 die, what size should I go for? The big use is a cage and flatbed, but I want to do some smaller stuff as well. Will 1.5x.120 tube get the job done, or do I need 1.75 or 1 5/8? Everything will be for my Toy pickup. Also, if...

I've got the Harbor Freight setup. It works well for me, but I just do home fab type stuff with it. It came with regulators, handle, tips, and hoses. The only thing I've added to it is some extra hose. I use the cutting tip most of the time, but have used the smaller welding tips for heating...

The idea is to have them break before a U-Joint or inner shaft. I wheel with a guy that runs them, and he likes them well enough. He says they don't break too easy for "normal" trail running. (Is anything we do "normal"?) It's like an electrical fuse, a part that is supposed to break BEFORE...

I'll show, just need to know when.

Problem is, he may well end up in the boat I'm in. I bought 4 15x8 wheels with 2" BS. They don't clear the brakes on my D44 from a Wagoneer. The problem with them is that in order to get low backspacing they flip the wheel centers around and on the back side of the wheels there is now a little...

I'd say start with Waggy springs and a drop hanger (1-2") up front with a little longer shackle. That should get you somewhat close. Then you can adjust shackle lengths and/or rear blocks to match them up. I would sugest leaving the block out of the rear to start with. You don't want to go...

You can use rears up front, I don't think they give much lift though. YJs are good, as are Waggys. IIRC, stock Waggys are worth about 3"-4" up front. I've talked to a guy that used rear F150 springs up front as well. Lots of options. :D If you're on a tight budget, those are probably the...

I'm using the Lokar on my engine swap. Easy to use, fits right up. I have to modify a few things for it, as it uses 5/16" holes for mounting at both ends, but that's easy. Better than trying to mate two stock cables or some other BS. Cost about $30, and it's more bling-bling than Six States. :D...

EFI is all I will ever run, street or trail. Carbs suck, period. Those who don't understand it should take a basic electronics class or read up on it. It's cake once you understand how it works. There are a few sensors to worry about, and the computer. Most can be tested low-tech, no need...

If it's driven on the road, you need the E-Brake. If for no other reason than it's required at inspection time. It's also a good idea to have just in case you lose pressure in the hydraulics for some reason. As for extending it, I have seen people use cable clamps and cable from hardware stores...

I allready called Factory, they wern't bad. It was about $55 for a good draglink. I'll try Charles as well.

It would be great to have that info, and where you got the DOM. The only places I've found won't sell small quantity. It sucks to have to buy 40 feet when I only need about 10. :rolleyes: Did Factory do a left hand tap on one side?

How much did you end up spending and with who? Did you buy your own DOM?

I was wondering if anyone had done business with a local shop that makes steering links for highsteer. I'd like some nice beefy ones like Rockstomer or Shakerbuilt, but may be short on time to buy from one of them. I'll be using large Chevy tie rod ends (7/8" IIRC).